Community Corner

Essex: Next Stop, 1871!

A trip on the Essex Steam Train and Riverboat takes you up the Connecticut River and back in time.

Here are some of the differences between riding a modern commuter train and traveling in a vintage steam train along a track first opened in 1871: The steam train chugs along at about 20 mph, but you don’t get annoyed. Its windows are open, and instead of worrying what filth might blow in, you simply enjoy the breeze on your face and the view of the Connecticut River.

Instead of a conductor announcing station stops, there’s a guide sharing local trivia and leading games for the children on board. People prevented from driving or walking across the street by flashing railroad crossing lights are not irked; instead, they smile and wave as your train passes. And you wave back.

The Essex Steam Train, operated by the Valley Railroad Company, doesn’t go far - it takes you from Essex to Chester and back. But it transports you into another era – several of them, in fact. The Valley Railroad has been around since the 1860s, the station from which you depart was built in 1892, and 2011 marks 40 years since sightseeing trains began carrying passengers to Deep River.

Find out what's happening in Windsor Locks-East Windsorwith free, real-time updates from Patch.

As the train rattles through woods and over bridges, blowing its whistle assertively, it passes the towns on its original route. Coach cars are classy and appealing, but for a bit more money you can travel first class in a restored 1920s parlor car or in an open car for better views.

In Deep River the train connects with the Becky Thatcher, a replica 19th century riverboat. On the way up the Connecticut to East Haddam and back, an amiable narrator provides commentary about the area’s natural and human history from Colonial days to the present.

Find out what's happening in Windsor Locks-East Windsorwith free, real-time updates from Patch.

The boat travels about 9 mph, the same speed as the early steamboats that plied this route. Back then it took 20 hours to get from Hartford to New York, and cost $5. You’ll learn, if you’re listening, about navigation on the river, its islands, and the houses and other buildings on its banks. If you’re not listening, you’ll still be entertained: the boat passes sights like the spooky Gillette Castle, perched high atop a hill, the magnificent Goodspeed Opera House, and the historic little Chester-Hadlyme Ferry. There’s also a snack bar on the lower deck and an observation deck for unobstructed views of the wide river. And that waving business? It continues on the water, as passing boaters enthusiastically greet the Becky Thatcher.

The excursion takes about two and a half hours; you can also just take the train, or disembark part way through and hike up to Gillette Castle State Park. Either way, you will be picked up by the train and delivered back to Essex Station afterwards. There’s more to see there, including a gift shop – kid-centric but not entirely so, there are Essex Steam Train shot glasses – and a snack bar, located in an old-school train car.

There’s a small museum too, the most engrossing feature of which is a detailed model town complete with spinning carnival ride, tiny cows, and a McDonald's. A diminutive freight train circles around the houses and trees. You’ve probably discerned that the Essex Steam Train is a perfect way to entertain (and tire out) your children. But the combination of history lesson and pleasure cruise means the trip is also delightful for adults.

There’s no denying that this outing is on the well-beaten tourist path. But despite that there’s something quite special about the journey. That’s partly because it’s the only steam train-riverboat connection in the country. But it’s also because it seamlessly blends the past with the present, the Mississippi with the Connecticut, and nostalgia with a novel way to spend the day.

If you go:

Essex Steam Train and Riverboat

1 Railroad Avenue, Essex

Spring Season extends through June 26 with trains running Saturdays and Sundays at 11am, 12:30pm, and 2pm. An additional train with no riverboat connection leaves at 3:30pm. Summer Season trains run on the same schedule daily from June 27 to August 28. Prices vary depending on age, choice of seat, and whether you take the train trip alone; the train plus riverboat; the train, ferry, and hike to Gillette Castle combination; or one of the many special  themed journeys offered. Tickets can be purchased at the station or online. For detailed information, call 860-767-0103 or 800-377-3987 or visit www.essexsteamtrain.com.


Get more local news delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up for free Patch newsletters and alerts.

We’ve removed the ability to reply as we work to make improvements. Learn more here